Wood Use/Characteristics The Wood Characteristics chart is presented as a general guide only, and the qualities listed should be taken with a grain of salt. The reason for this is that there are many variables that must be considered in the application and usage of various wood types.
For example, the fact that white oak may be excellent for frame members does not mean that each and every piece of white oak lumber will be suitable for such service.
Then too, in some parts of the country, a wood that may be suitable in one area may not be suitable in another for various reasons, such as the quality or quantity available, local practices of seasoning, or any number of other variables. In other words, the recommendations are all relative not only to the locale, but to the services to which the lumber will be applied.
Again, the emphasis is made that this listing is general in nature, and the guide to follow is to use those woods that are proven in boat building use in the locale. Also, when selecting a wood from the chart, be sure to look over the adjoining text for that particular species.
Hardwoods |
Weight |
Strength |
Decay/Rot Resistance |
Fastening Ability |
Comments |
Apitong |
Heavy |
Strong |
Poor |
Good |
Difficult to work |
Ash,white |
Heavy |
Fairly strong |
Poor |
Fair |
High shock resistance |
Elm, rock |
Heavy |
Strong |
Fair |
Good |
Good for steam bending |
Greenhart |
Very Heavy |
Very strong |
Very Good |
Very good |
For heavy, durable construction |
Iroko |
Heavy |
Strong |
Good |
Good |
Can be used in place of teak in many parts |
Ironbark (eucalyptus) |
Very Heavy |
Very strong |
Good |
Good |
For heavy, durable construction |
Lignumvitae (Ironwood) |
Very Heavy |
Very strong |
Very Good |
Good |
Used for keel and worm shoes, rubbing strakes |
Mahogany, African |
Medium |
Fairly strong |
Good |
Good |
Not as good as Honduras Mahogany |
Mahogany, Honduras |
Medium |
Fairly strong |
Good |
Good |
Best of mahoganies |
Mahogany, Philippine |
Medium |
Fairly Strong |
Fairly good |
Good |
Use dark red variety in boats |
Oak, white |
Heavy |
Strong |
Good |
Very good |
Don't confuse with red oak |
Okoume |
Light |
Not strong |
Poor |
Fair |
Suitable for light, small boats |
Teak |
Heavy |
Strong |
Very good |
Good |
Hard on tools, can remain unfinished |
Softwoods |
Weight |
Strength |
Decay/Rot Resistance |
Fastening Ability |
Comments |
Cedar, Alaska |
Medium |
Fairly strong |
Good |
Good |
Heartwood & sapwood look similar |
Cedar, Atlantic White |
|
|
Good |
|
Planking |
Cedar, Northern White |
|
|
Good |
|
Small boat planking |
Cedar, Port Orford |
Light |
Strong |
Very good |
Good |
Preferred boat building cedar |
Cedar, Western red |
Light |
Not strong |
Very good |
Fair |
Suitable for veneers in cold mold planking and for light, small boats |
Cypress, Bald |
|
Moderate Strength |
Very good |
|
Planking |
Douglas-fir |
Medium |
Strong |
Fairly good |
Good |
Use only clear, vertical grain |
Larch, Eastern |
Light |
Fairly strong |
Fairly good |
Good |
Traditionally used for natural knees and stems |
Larch, Western |
Medium |
Strong |
Fairly good |
Good |
Similar to Douglas-fir |
Pine, White |
|
Weak |
Fairly poor |
|
Non-structural joinery |
Pine, longleaf yellow |
Heavy |
Strong |
Good |
Very good |
Substitute for white oak |
Redwood |
|
Moderate |
Good to Poor |
Poor |
|
Spruce, Eastern |
|
Moderate |
Poor |
|
Non-structural |
Spruce, Engelmann |
|
Weak |
Poor |
|
Interior joiner work |
Spruce, Sitka |
Light |
Fairly strong |
Poor |
Fair |
High strength to weight ratio |
|